Things to do in Marrakech Medina

I am a huge fan of Marrakech and have spent lots of time over the last decade getting to know the city. These are some of my tips. I also strongly recommend you get your hands on a guidebook to get more thorough details on what this amazing city has to offer. TIME OUT guide is one of the best.

Practical Information

The Moroccan currency is the Dirham. £1 sterling = sadly now fallen post Brexit to approx 12MAD. The exchange rate is linked to the euro. A bureau de change is available at the airport by luggage collection or in Arrival Hall. ATM machines are plentiful in Marrakech. You will be lucky to find dirhams in the UK as it is a controlled currency.

Ask for some small notes while cashing money at the desk, and also some coins. Morocco is a place where tips are customary, so collect as many single dirham coins as you can, to keep in your pocket. Everyone, especially locals, hand out 1 or 2 dirhams continually to deserving causes.

Marrakech is not too overloaded with attractions as this is an on foot exploring and people-watching town.

Getting around Marrakech

Taxis

Taxis are operated on a shared basis. Small taxis in abundance are found close by in Bab Taghzout. They take only 3 people and empty taxis are a rarity – wave them down! For trips in the evening to restaurants it is easier to get Aziza to book.

Many small taxis will not use their meter as they are supposed to! Easier to:

1. Tell driver where you are going and pile in
2. Don’t ask the price
3. At your destination say nothing, hand over money and leave!

If you are confident, tell the driver to put a meter on and you will hear back it’s broken!

Have small denomination notes and change on you always. For trips to Gueliz New Town hand over no more than 30MAD without discussion, 40MAD at night. More local journeys 20-30MAD inclusive of tip (or more) to the Place Djemma El Fnaa, 30MAD at night. When returning ask for Bab Tagzout (pronounced exactly as written) and retrace your steps home to Riad DarTzt.

Grands Taxis are for longer trips, do not have meters and price definitely by negotiation. They have no restriction on numbers and 7+ passengers can be squashed in!

You can walk 15-20min to the main square/Place de Jemaa el-Fnaa or Gueliz New Town, turn right from top of Bab Taghzout and follow the traffic. Taxis are 30MAD for La Place and 40MAD to Gueliz during daytime, 60MAD back in the evening. This is more than a meter will say but worth it. If on meter (unusual they switch off except with older drivers) pay the same tariff with tip and thank the driver for using meter!

At the top of Bab Taghzout is a badged up man who will flag down the taxis for you, give him 10MAD.

If you get lost, best to ask in a shop for directions for Bab Taghzout where the House is 4-5 min. walk away from. DO NOT be led astray by unannounced guides and never “look lost” as this invites approaches to guide you for money!

Imad, The Best Taxi Driver of All

Imad is the driver to pick you up at the airport. He is very courteous and speaks English and French. He has been working for us for some time and is extremely reliable and has a 7/8 person carrier!

Give him as much notice as possible if you would like to use his services. He is able to take you almost anywhere – from trips to the local supermarket, to morning tours around Marrakech, to a full day on the coast, half day trip to the mountains or even the 3 day round trip to the desert. Day trips are usually 1500dh and Aziza will arrange booking for you. If you are dining out in the new town (Gueliz or Hivernage) best to get him to pick you up at the House and when you get the bill after dinner you can call him and have the hassle free return. Preferred arrangement for many.

Imad has a set of fixed tariffs so there is no confusion – please confirm with him or via Aziza before you go.

Local trips

As some tourists feel that they are approached by “false” guides, authorities have brought in a law to try and ban local hasslers, the Tourist Police have a strong presence which helps. This makes the souks much less daunting to wander around than before.

However, Aziza and Mbarak can guide you around the local area, although Mbarak will walk a few steps ahead to avoid being taken for an unofficial guide and being spot fined!

Official guides can be arranged but be specific where you want to go as there is always a possibility you will be taken to shops where they have commission! We do know a decent guide, although it’s more fun without either an official or unofficial guide!

I personally like the idea of guided bike rides in the Medina that have recently been started. Bikes are new and sturdy, it seems groups of 8-10 people max with escorts front and rear. The garage where you start is quite close to the House.

Go with Mbarak on his scooter (at your own risk!) for a whistle stop tour on the back of his moped and give him 100MAD for his time and fuel at the end of your visit!

An accurate map of the Medina is impossible to find, we enclose a guide that should assist. The streets teem with people, bikes, scooters, donkeys and carts and the occasional car. The general rule is to walk purposefully on the right hand side. Be careful – the pace is manic but fun!

Top Attractions & Hidden Gems

Swim, sunbathe, or spa

Beldi Country Club is good for a swim, sunbathe, or spa and a good lunch. Popular and can be crowded.

Best value for me for a relaxing day is the Mandarin Oriental. Enjoy a day at the pool and spa and lunch included. Both just out of town and a taxi will take you and pick you up 150Dh each way.

Food street market behind Bab Taghzout. Aziza will guide you through the experience.

Shopping everywhere!

From the Souks to the new town, Gueliz. All within walking distance.

Mustapha Blaoui is close by with his emporium of everything will open your eyes and pocket. The best of shopping. Little scope for negotiation but a fantastic collection of the best of stuff!

Museums and exhibitions

The House of Photography of Marrakech and cool rooftop coffee bar in Medina behind the Musée de Marrakech. Really interesting collection of early photos.

Dar El Bacha, a museum that serves as a prime example of traditional Moroccan architecture.

The new Yves St Laurent Museum is a MUST opposite YSL Jardin Majorelle. Beautiful modern building with examples of his works and wonderful history of a troubled talented genius. Touching experience.

New Museum of African Contemporary Art is a stunning building and collection. Near Golf Royal, it’s definitely worth a short trip. New museum so some taxis do not know about it. Aziza can arrange a taxi.

Other places of interest

Saadian Tombs in the Medina is fascinating especially when there isn’t too many visitors.

Slat Al Azama Synagogue and Miaâra Jewish Cemetery  in the Mellah.

Fashion and “bits”

Apart from the usual stuff in the souks, you will find, or Aziza will show you my preferred carpet / rug store, a knowledgeable health food shop, and a little Japanese owned shop. Further out in Gueliz, apart from Zara and other standards, have a look down Rue de la Liberté for some interesting shops.

Support the locals 

If you have a favourite bit of clothing but wearing it out, take it to Boubka the tailor next door and he will make a new item. Alternatively for repairs Soumaya opposite in her little studio is very skillful and reasonably priced.

I had a great thin leather shoulder case made recently for carrying my Macbook. Mbarak knows the man in the souks if interested.

Men – turn right up the street to find Yasin in the Fonduk for a great haircut and / or shave at 50MAD (very local experience in the historic passageway with locals looking on!).

Ladies – Take courage and go to the local Hammam with Aziza for a thorough scrub down. Leave your western shyness at home!

The Spa at the new NOBU Hotel is very upmarket and Bains de Marrakech is another Hammam with the same result – men are given a plastic nappy to wear! 

A Good Pharmacy is located close by the House run by Eltabeth very efficiently.

Turn left outside the House and head towards the nearest city gate of Bab el-Khemis, famous for its flea market. Sadly it is being eroded by the local development plans but it is still worth a trip if you like fascinating junk! I suggest Mbarak takes you.

Dining Options

Eating in

If you wish to eat in the Riad for lunch or dinner, Aziza is a great cook. Typically on the first night guests like to eat in and this can be arranged before you leave – just let us know and this dinner is complimentary.

Aziza spent time working as a cook for a French lady and as a result will prepare delicious meals both with a French or local flavour with a twist. Lunch or dinner are served by the staff in the dining room or on the terrace in the summer.

The lunch and dinner catering arrangements are run by the staff as their own venture.

From January 2018 – per head for adults and children over 12 – ingredients included:

Lunch: 120MAD
Dinner: 170MAD

Give Aziza a few hours notice and pay her direct at the time. She then goes to buy the shopping, cooks and serves at the table for you.

Go food shopping with Aziza to a local market for an experience and to choose your dinner!

Eating out

With the city being a top tourist destination the cost of eating out at a good restaurant is getting almost to European level once you get beyond the BBQs of la Place Jemaa El-Fnaa.

Those on short trips and with delicate stomachs best avoid “cheap eats” on offer all over. Be careful of the stalls in the square particularly in the summer.

My Preferred local restaurants in the Medina are:

Hotel Sultana: Save for a special occasion: a 5 star stylish experience. High end for venue ambiance, food and price. My good friend Xavier is the general manager so worth mentioning a connection when booking. 

Terrasse des Epices,  Fonduk, and Café Arabe: I like them all, close by in Medina and all licensed. All have roof terraces. Beware of your stomach as there are plenty of cheaper eats in the unlicensed cafes around the Square. 

Sahbi Sahb: Female run restaurant with good reviews. Busy, quite small and needs a booking.

Limoni: Good Italian with now decent reviews. It is the closest to the House.

Casanova: In the new town (Gueliz) is a friendly Italian trattoria and reasonably priced.

A favourite for me in Gueliz new town is Cafe De La Poste, French Brasserie style. Drinks on the front interior terrace (no drinking in view of the street!), and lunch / dinner inside or outside. Ambiance and service are always good and food is very acceptable. Good French chef. Eric the General Manager is a long time friend. Quite expensive but worth it.

Close by Café de la Poste is Casa Jose, a very good Spanish restaurant and bar with a small outside terrace and stylish fit out. Very good cuisine, tapas style and friendly staff. Worth a visit.

For an interesting coffee selection try Maison des Confluences.

Bars

There are numerous bars in the new town Gueliz and Hivernage. There are limited places for “Off Sales” of alcohol but Mbarak can take you on the House moped… at your own risk!!!

The Medina is generally “dry” but one bar worth a walk to is Kozybar Place Ferblantiers, 10 mins  walk from the Square following the traffic on the circular road. Great view from the top terrace of the small square, storks on the palace walls and city, plus nice Mojitos. Go for a sunset. Not for food, although the pizzas are good.

Day Trips and Tours

A half-day trip to the Ourika valley or Lower Atlas with our taxi is really nice. For a full day trip, I recommend Kasbah Aït Benhaddou close to Ouzazate. It was recently restored by world heritage funding and hidden away on the old Silk Road, 4 hrs each way. A great trip with a stunning result.

For those with days to spare, a trip to Essaouira can easily be arranged by Taxi. If it’s a day trip a driver may wait there. Or for more fun get a coach: “SupraTours“ from the coach station by the new train station. The journey to Essaouira takes about 2hr 30min with a comfort stop through interesting countryside. Buy a return ticket as soon as you get to the other end in the busy season. Look out for tree climbing goats after argan oil nuts as you approach Essaouira!

To stay at Essaouira my favourite riad overlooking the sea is at 16 Rue Yemen called Dar Charifa. I can speak to Abdou (+212611833031) there to book a double room, 700-1000 Dh per night depending on the season.

In Essaouira try lunch or early dinner in the fish market (in the Medina itself, not the port) pick your fresh fish for nothing, they will filet it and you head for the top left side of the market and find a few tables and BBQ… perfect and little known to tourists.

Further up the coast going North is Safi and then Oualidia, a small village on the seaside with a large lagoon for good swimming. Coach to Essaouira as above.

I would avoid agency booked trips. I’d prefer to let Aziza get a price and arrange for you as you then get picked up at the House and brought back to the House at times to suit you.